Concrete Driveway & RV Pad Installation
A driveway fails from the bottom up. Before we talk about finishes, we strip out the soft stuff, shape the grade, and compact the base in lifts until it stops moving. That base is what carries your truck. The concrete on top of it just spreads the load.
We tie rebar on a grid and chair it up so the steel sits inside the slab where it does work, instead of wire mesh that ends up stepped down onto the dirt during the pour. RV pads get a thicker slab and heavier steel again, because a loaded coach sits in one spot for months at a time. We lay out the fall before the forms go in so water runs to the street or a drain and never back toward the garage, and we saw the control joints on schedule so the slab relieves itself along a straight line instead of wherever it wants.
The finish is your call. A broom finish is the workhorse: grippy, easy to hose off, and forgiving about dust. If you want the driveway to match the front of the house, we can stamp it, band it in a contrasting color, or run a decorative border around a broom field. Replacing a slab that already failed? Tear-out is part of the job. We break it out, haul it off, and fix whatever was wrong underneath before we pour again.
What’s included
- Demolition and haul-off of the old slab, including repair of the base under it
- Grading and base compacted in lifts, checked before a single form goes in
- Rebar tied on a grid and chaired up into the slab, not mesh laid on dirt
- Drainage laid out so water runs away from the house, garage, and foundation
- Approach apron formed and tied cleanly into the existing curb cut
- Saw-cut control joints placed to steer where the slab cracks
- Broom, salt, or decorative finish, with optional color bands and borders
- Reinforced RV pad option with a thicker slab and heavier steel
Common questions
How long before I can drive on it?
Stay off it on foot for the first day or so, and keep vehicles off for about a week. Concrete keeps gaining strength long after it stops looking wet. We give you the exact date at the pour and leave barricades up so nobody has to guess.
Rebar or wire mesh?
Rebar, on anything that carries a vehicle. Mesh only works if it is held up in the middle of the slab, and on a real pour it almost always gets walked down onto the base where it does nothing. We tie rebar on a grid and chair it so the steel stays where it belongs.
Can you pour over my old driveway instead of tearing it out?
It depends on why the old one failed. If the slab is broken up, heaving, or sitting on a base that washed out, pouring over it buys you the same cracks in a new surface. We would rather break it out, fix the base, and pour once. If the existing slab is sound and only looks tired, a decorative overlay is a real option. We will tell you straight which one you are looking at.
Will it crack?
Concrete moves. Our job is to control where. We compact the base, put the steel where it works, and saw control joints in on time so the slab cracks along the line we cut instead of across the middle of your driveway.
Tell us about your project
Send a few details about what you want built and we will get back to you to set up a free on-site estimate.